Not wanting to blow my own horn but I published an article on how to make taper lock bushings in issue # 11 of Model Engine Builder magazine. This type of mount for flywheels is frequently used (and made) by Model Engineers.
So many magazines, so little time. Thank you.
Tapers are always a bit tricky to cut because not only do the tapers, male and female, have to match, they must be cut directly on center or they will not have straight sides.[/quote
And trying to match the tapers on a manual lathe is a right pain. But with a CNC it is easy enough.
'On centre' - yes, a hidden trap. But it can be handled.
I sent you the issue via SendThisFile.com. Let me know when you receive it please.
This approximately 10 HP supercharged V-8 model uses a taper lock on the flywheel if I remember correctly. THe engine is about 1 foot long, front to back.
Zip file received. Interesting article (and issue), for which my thanks.
Ah, model engine enthusiasts, and the smell of nitro ... (or ether+olive oil)
However, about half the article has to be devoted to explaining how to get +4.0 degree and -4.0 degree tapers on a manual lathe, with the admission that the 4 degrees will still only be approximate. This is fine if one is restricted to a manual lathe, but I suspect that most readers here will be running CNC machines. With a decent CNC lathe you just specify 4.00 degrees in the code and that is it. An extremely accurate match results. (Yes, I do have a manual lathe and a manual mill as well.)
I did have some reservations about scale. Your taperlock design uses 4 - 6 bolts to tighten the taperlock into the pulley. Some of the taperlock fittings I am making, or rather the pulleys they are being fitted to, would require 1 mm bolts for that to fit into the space provided. A shade too small I think. Instead I went for a single nut over the whole taperlock. That is just a detail: on a larger taperlock the flange+bolts would be better.
Understand the CNC focus but Model Engineers, for the most part (us old guys) primarily use manual machines hence the care to explain how to do it right without a computer. The newer members of the community do use CNC as do I in a limited way.
A single nut is a good idea. I think I'll mention it to our clock-makers. The locomotive guys still use keyways.
The V-8 runs Sonoco Racing Fuel at 110 octane. Mainly because the automotive pump gas we buy in California goes off in about 30 days and racing gas does not. Aviation gas is also popular for the same reason.
I tried putting a keyway into the taperlock, but that meant drilling or broaching a 1 - 1.5 mm hole down the boundary between taperlock and pulley at the taper angle for maybe 10 mm. That was ... difficult.
The single nut works very well imho.
Yeah, I understand about your more 'senior' members. :) Given the hassles of maintaining a CNC, I don't blame them.
In the end, I found that a 2011 aluminium taper inside a 2011 or 6061 aluminium pulley on a steel shaft did not need a key of any sort. Once the taper has been done up tightly, you need a hammer to break it loose. All very successful.
I will have to make a good gear-puller to get them back off the shafts ...