Could you post the actual dxf files that you
used as the latch and the trigger. Also, what
thickness to make each piece and where to place
the magnets? I would like to cut these pieces on my laser cutter.
Here is a dxf showing the magnets and the drawing that were used for the trigger and toggle.
You will find you may have to sand and shape a bit, as I said, I tend to get close with drawings and cut,
then I shave or sand till they clear any obstacles. The thickness of both is about 20mm..
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The toggle has two magnets. The first is a very small 1/8" round magnet planter in the top back corner facing upwards,
it faces a mate in the top that is at the "rest" position of the toggle. Look at the top photo and youll see a post.. ( cut from a
Q-Tip cotton swab, that post stops the toggle from swinging its back end out further, and also defines the "Rest" position.
At that spot is a small 1/8" magnet that attracts the 1/8" in the toggles top facing upwards. All these two do is define a
very weak spring that holds the toggle in its rest position as it swings around CW. If it was out and hit a post while moving CW,
the toggle will get flicked back to hit the cotton swap post, and the magnets will then attract each other and hold it there.
The other, and more important magnet, is a cylindrical magnet, 1/4" by 1/2" inch long that is embedded into a groove
cut into the toggle, it faces outwards so as to attract itself to the cylindrical magnet in the trigger latch. As its hard to determine
where this magnet goes in the toggle, the one in the trigger latch is pressed further away or closer to the one in the toggle
to adjust their relative power to attract each other. SO to put the one in the toggle, tou have to machine out a groove to fit
the cylinder into, or, if you use a different type of magnet ( any will do) , drill a hole or make a pocket, whatever it takes
to attach a magnet to the toggle strong enough to pull itself toward the trigger latch as the top turns CCW toward it.
No problem, I know the challenge of building these things. You'll find though, as you go, the
shapes become obvious. If a magnet isnt strong enough, replace with another , or move to a position
where it has better attraction. Orange wasn't made from strictly dxf's, I rough such things out, then
build and adjust till I see where the problems lie.
I hope in future to give much better tools for figuring out such things. A new application has been started
with that aim in mind. It'll be awhile before "Vexx" is released in Gearotics package, but my aim is to
remove all the vector tools from Auggie and gearotic and place them in a MUCH better GUI and database
to allow kinetic designs to be more rapidly built and simulated. "Vexx" will be dedicated for vector art,
kinetics and their mechanization.
better deal if someone in the US can do it.
I wonder if anyone sorted out the spring specs to pick a replacement from McMaster-Carr?
The specs for the Vulcan spring are:
Part Number SV10G160
Torque ? 10% 4.17 in-lbs.
Thickness (in) 0.010"
Width (in) 0.500"
I.D. +-10% 1.01"
Output Drum 2.02"
Center to Center 2.25"
It doesn't look like McMaster-Carr has anything as long (160"), but a handful in the 30" - 60" +/- lengths, in the 4 +/- pound torque range.
What matters most in this type of design?
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